Beaglebone Black Enclosure Assembly

IMG_3309 ready

Need a kit? Grab one from the store! Want the design files and BOM for this thing? Head over to it's Thingiverse page.

Step 1: Remove masking from parts

Every acrylic part comes with a paper masking on it to protect it. Now before assembly, it is time to remove the masking from all of the parts.

Step 2: Mount the PCB to the Bottom

Take the 4 quarter inch nylon standoffs and place them on the bottom piece, lined up with the holes.


Carefully place the PCB on top of the standoffs


Take the 2 eighth inch standoffs and place them on top of the PCB as shown in the image below

NOTE: If you are using this enclosure for the original Beaglebone, you need to just insert 4 of the 14mm bolts and thread the nuts on. Then continue on to the next step.


Take the button guide (the small U-shaped part with 3 square holes in it) and place it on top of the 2 eighth inch standoffs and put the two 22mm bolts through. Insert 2 of the 14mm bolts through the other holes. Thread on the nuts and tighten the bolts down. Go ahead and put the buttons in place at this time.


Step 3: Pre Assemble the rest of the Enclosure

(optional) tape 4 of the remaining nuts into the slots in the two side brackets.


Insert one of the side brackets into the Ethernet/power sides and bolt it together.


Repeat with the other side bracket


Step 4: Assemble the 2 assemblies together

Set the 2 side brackets and Ethernet/Power assembly on the bottom piece as shown below


Now set the top piece on top making sure to line the holes up for the buttons (for the original Beaglebone, use the top piece with the single hole labeled 'reset')


Pick up the bottom piece and work the buttons through the holes on the top. Then slide the top and bottom into their slots on the Ethernet/Power side.


Step 5: Attach the USB/ SD/ HDMI side

Put the USB/ SD/ HDMI side in place and thread the bolts in without tightening them all the way down.


Now take the side pieces and insert them as shown in the images below.



When both sides are on, tighten down the bolts and enjoy your new Beaglebone Black enclosure!

  IMG_3309 ready

IMG_3314 ready

IMG_3317 ready

IMG_3319 ready

IMG_3322 ready

IMG_3323 ready

IMG_3305 ready

IMG_3307 ready


8 Responses to “Beaglebone Black Enclosure Assembly”

  1. bmfc says:

    Just received mine yesterday. It’s great! AMAZINGLY tight fit, i actually had to take a file and file down the breakaway perf.’s between the power jack and ethernet jack, but after that it fits PERFECTLY. Only problem i have with the enclosure is you can’t access the connectors without taking the whole enclosure apart and removing the top. Need to have some kind of access to the headers and serial connector. Id be willing to pay for a new top that has some kind of access ports for the headers, or a top that comes off without dissassembling the entire enclosure…Other than that it’s awesome!

  2. RayDavidson says:

    Nice case design! One question – the 22mm bolts appear to be shown upside down so that the head of the bolt would activate the button on the PCB. Unfortunately the supplied bolts are hex-drive and the hole in the head of the bolt means that the 22mm bolts are useless for activating the buttons. Maybe supply non-hex bolts?

  3. RayDavidson says:

    ignore that last; I should have looked closer at the buttons. Sorry about that chief!

  4. Craig says:

    You can remove the top without tearing the whole case down, just loosen up the bolts on one or both sides of the case and pop it off. I agree that it’s not super easy compared to making a top that pops off easily, but it’s not super hard either. I’ll keep this in mind if I update the case and in future cases.

  5. Thibaut says:

    Just received it today morning. Really really nice and easy to build ! Thanks

  6. […] original source for this enclosure is here and can be purchased at Built to Spec […]

  7. Chuck says:

    A very nice case. I’ve built both of mine. Some thoughts

    1) It would be great to support a serial cable. I drilled a hole in the top and used the Adafruit Rpi serial cable with a bit of hot glue as a strain relief.

    2) Two-tone! A friend who suggested this case got one black and one clear. He used the black for the ‘sled’ and end caps and the clear for the top and sides. Pretty stylish look. I’d go for translucent red/clear or blue/clear but that is just me. It makes for an interesting style statement 🙂

    Non-skid rubber for the ‘feet’ basically a bit of 1/16″ wide adhesive backed rubber tape cut to length did the trick nicely although I’m guessing forward backward pressure if I try to plug in the ethernet too often may end up being an issue.

    Very nice case! Love it though, thanks for making it available in kit form.

  8. Graeme says:

    Great design, well made! I’d second Chuck’s comment about a Beaglebone Black serial port header punch-out and cape punch-out and extension pins on the lid. This would enable debug without the need to disassemble. Perhaps you could offer a retro-fit lid upgrade with cap extension header? I’d pay for that 🙂

    This case was so good I bought the Clear Raspberry Pi Enclosure Assembly also 🙂

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